Sunday, March 2, 2014

TARDIS Corset Construction Detail

I finished my TARDIS corset in time for my birthday a month ago and then flossed it sometime the next week.

I tried to show how much shaping the corset gives by taking one of those pictures where the corset lies flat except for the bust and hips area, which flare up, but the corset didn't cooperate nicely.


The construction method is basically the same as for my brown underbust corset that I made last year and that I've been using as my only corset since then.  Basically, the corset is sewn together, the seams are pressed open, and the boning channels are applied directly over each seam.  (This is different from the technique I used on the gold overbust, which was just to pressed the seams to the side, sew them down, and insert the bones directly into the seam allowance.)  I've decided I prefer using the boning channels technique.  

For this corset, I also included a waist tape.  I did it so that the bottom edge of the twill tape I used matches up with the notches that indicated my waistline.  I have no idea if this is the correct way to go about it or if the waist tape should be centered over the waistline.  Eh, whatever.

Though the flossing on the inspiration extant corset is all at the top of the bones, I flossed at the bottom. This is partly because I added the trim directly over the top of the bones and thus, couldn't actually reach the bones to floss them and partly because most of the bones I bought from Richard the Thread were just a smidge too short and I wanted to make sure that the boning would stay up near by bust, where I need the most support.


(I forgot to explain what flossing is in terms of corsets.  I'm sure some of you are wondering.  Flossing is a functional decoration that holds bones in place and adds to the longevity of a corset (it would keep the bone from wearing through the fabric).  I'm using sturdy materials - coutil and whatever the boning channels are made of - that are specifically for corset making, so I'm not too worried about the bones popping out, but the inspiration extant corset has flossing (as do basically all extant corsets) and see explanation for why I flossed the bottoms of the bones #2, above.)

I used this article from Foundations Revealed to give me the X pattern that I saw on the inspiration extant corset.  This might be sacrilegious to say, but I used plain ol' white thread.  Nothing fancy.  Nothing special.  No embroidery thread.  No industrial grade buttonhole thread.  Just thread.  The same thread I was using to sew the corset.  And hey, it still looks nice!


I got this ribbon-threaded look (which I've learned is called beading) with the lace and ribbon by  passing a thin length of ribbon through a lace trim I bought for the Edwardian costume.  It's a cool look and it's probably what makes the corset look so TARDIS-y.


Heh.  For the waist tape I used twill tape I had in my stash.  It's a fairly thick tape for some reason, so I was worried about it being too bulky.  I apparently went out and bought a thinner and whiter twill tape to use instead, but I completely forgot about it until I was going through my notions box yesterday.  Whoops.

The twill tape is held on only by stitches of the boning channel.


I'm really proud of how neatly the hand stitching I did to attach the trim came out.  I like how straight the stitching is.  *Smiley face*


The picture below shows what the back side of  the flossing looks like.  The four parallel lines to the left go around the bone.  The thick line to the right is a series of stitches entirely through the fabric that holds the bone in place, and the few little dots in the middle are my initial anchoring stitches.


By the way, ten points to Hufflepuff to that freshman in the art studio that recognized it as a TARDIS corset.  I respect you and your nerdom.

1 comment:

  1. looks fantastic. interesting info about the flossing, I just assumed it was entirely decorative :)

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